Not all CDRs are created
equal
By
Ron Kubara, Business Development Manager, Noritsu Canada Ltd.
Image permanence for CDRs
(Compact Disc Recordable) is an area that is not well known or
understood by the general consumer, nor by many photo labs.
Contrary to popular belief, most CDRs are not permanent, and
low-priced CDRs may not be readable at all and error in as
little as two years.
A
cheap CDR is great for moving files from one PC to another,
but risky if being used to archive files or images. Quality
CDRs utilize high-quality recording and reflective layers, and
are well sealed to reduce the harmful effects of the human
environment.
The
material used for the plastic substrate (polycarbonate) of the
CD and CDR is also important, as it needs to be gas
impermeable. Unfortunately, no plastic is; but some plastics
are better than others. Even more important is the quality and
thickness of the top coatings used to seal layers coated on
the substrate.

Prerecorded
CDs are made by “stamping” the information into the
plastic substrate, then an aluminum alloy coating is applied
to the “bumpy” stamped surface. The laser either reflects
off this reflective layer and a “1 bit” is determined, or
the laser is deflected by the “stamped” bump and a “0
bit” is determined. Contrary to popular belief, the recorded
layer of a CD/CDR is not “sandwiched” within the plastic
substrate. A clear lacquer protective layer is put on top of
the aluminum reflective layer. A label is put on top, or a
thick ink coating is applied. As the CD is read from the
plastic side, a paper, plastic or ink label applied to the CD
provides extra protection against the data surfaces being
scratched.
CDRs
are not stamped with the data; they are burned with data by
the end user. The plastic polycarbonate, however, is stamped
with splines (tracks or lines) for the laser to follow. A
recording layer is also referred to as the dye layer, and it
is sprayed on top of these splines. Four basic chemical
formulae are used for the recording layer dye:
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Cyanine/light
green/blue in color: low cost to make, most common and
lowest permanence. |
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Phthalocyanine/transparent
with a slight green tint: highest permanence and
second most common. |
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Metallized
Azo/blue: similar in quality to Phthalocyanine, costs
less to make and are not common. |
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Formazan/light
green: combination of Cyanine and Phthalocyanine,
similar in quality to Phthalocyanine, costs less to
make, and are not as common. |
CDR
manufacturers may modify one of these dyes and create a
custom, proprietary formula and/or change the traditional
color of the dye. Thus, CDR color cannot accurately be used to
determine the type of dye used.
CD
read lasers are infrared and are not affected by the color or
visible light opacity of the dye. As a result, the recording
layer dye color is irrelevant to the laser, as it will
effortlessly pass through any dye that is not infrared opaque.
The dye will become infrared opaque when burned by the write
laser.
“Funky”
CDRs have a colored dye layer in front of the recording layer
dye, creating colored CDRs. Black CDRs block visible light
from reaching the recording and reflective layer; thus, these
layers cannot be seen by the eye. Yet, the type of black dye
used will let the infrared laser pass.
Gamers
and music experts believe black CDRs produce better quality
CDRs, but this researcher could not find any scientific
evidence to support this claim. As a black layer prevents
visible light from reaching the recording layer dye (these
dyes will fade over time when exposed to visible light), a
black layer may increase longevity over an identical grade CDR
when both are stored in the light.
A
reflective coating made of silver alloy, pure silver, or pure
gold is layered on top of the recording layer. Although silver
will show the true color of the recording layer dye, gold will
change the dye color because of its yellowish color. The
burning laser melts a “pit” into the dye, which then
blocks the read laser from reflecting back, and a “0 bit”
is determined. A good dye burns a nice clean pit, so the read
laser knows for sure if it is a “0 bit” or “1 bit.” If
the burn is not clean and the edge is not a clean cut, the CDR
will produce an error.
To
protect the coatings, lacquer is applied, and high-quality
manufacturers make it nice and thick or will even apply a
separate protective coating. Poor CDRs have very little
protection on the coatings and will scratch easily, or worse,
delaminate. By writing with a nonwater-base felt pen, the ink
could make its way to the data layer and damage a poorly
sealed CDR. But be aware that even the best-coated CDRs can be
damaged over time by nonwater-based felt markers.
It
is difficult to use CDR color only as a guide; but as a
general guideline, if the CDR does not have a color tint, it
is likely a lower-quality silver alloy with a poor dye layer.
Blue, green, and faint green CDRs will be good if they used
quality silver. Unfortunately, there is no way to know for
sure. Gold CDRs are the best because, when the manufacturers
use gold, they use a quality dye. But don’t be fooled by
manufacturers that place a gold-color label on the non-read
side, or the ones that add a funky gold-color layer on the
read side.
There
are several reasons for good or poor CDR permanence.
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1.
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Plastic
(polycarbonate substrate) is oxygen permeable. Oxygen
eventually makes its way through the non-lacquered
side (as well as the lacquered side in some cases) and
reaches the reflective layer. As aluminum corrodes
when exposed to oxygen, and silver corrodes or
tarnishes when exposed to sulfides in air, air
reaching the reflective layers will cause corrosion,
causing a read error. This could happen in as little
as two years with poor CDs. Gold CDRs are best in this
area, followed by gold/silver alloy. Silver/aluminum
alloy is the poorest.
Equally
important is the optical quality of the plastic. High
optical-quality CDRs permit the light to pass through
the polycarbonate with little or no diffusion,
permitting a cleaner burn to the dye. The spiral
grooves stamped to the CDR vary by manufacturer. It is
easier and cheaper to make a V-shaped groove than a
sharp edge U groove. A V-type stamp will have a higher
degree of skipping errors, as the laser may not be
able to track properly, much like the needle of a
phonograph if it does not have enough weight on it.
Additionally, the stamp will wear as it stamps CDR
after CDR, resulting in a U-shaped groove becoming
more V-shaped over time, which may lead to skipping
and errors.
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2.
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The
dyes used in the recording layer are light sensitive,
and will react to ambient light and fade over time.
Quality CDRs use a dye that resists fading. To be
safe, store them in the dark. |
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3.
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Humidity
may seep through a poor lacquer coating. Quality CDRs
are well sealed and resist seepage from markers and
moisture. To make them last, store in low humidity,
and use water-based markers and write on the center
core. |
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4.
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A
scratch on the base side can be repaired, but a
scratch on the lacquer side makes the CD a coffee
table coaster. Quality CDRs have a thick, protective
coating to resist scratches. |
Archiving
reports vary by manufacturer, but 70 years would be low for a
quality CDR, with the norm being 100 years. Some manufacturers
of gold CDRs claim 100 to 200 years. You generally get what
you pay for. Don’t put those precious images on a CDR that
costs just a few nickels and dimes.
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